Henna can be used as a natural alternative to chemical hair dyes: but what henna does do your hair, and is it safe to use?

If you have a browse on the internet you’ll find a lot of information, but most of it is very confusing and conflicting. I’ve been using henna for years, and in this post I’ll talk about what I’ve learnt from my experience as a happy henna user. And I will answer to the most common questions about Henna.

Also, just to be clear, I’ll be talking about the use of pure henna powder: a lot of products out there claims they are henna, but if you look at the ingredients you’ll find out that henna is only a small percentage among other ingredients. You want to use 100% pure henna powder on your hair!

Where does Henna come from?

Natural Henna (Lawsonia inermis) is a natural dye which have been used for thousands of years not only to colour hair but also skin, nails and fabrics. Archaeological evidence dates its use back to Ancient Egypt, where Henna was considered a symbol of blessing and protection; because of that, women started to decorate their skin and hair with it in religious ceremonies and festivals.

Henna’s cosmetic properties are also celebrated in the Ayurvedic tradition in India, making it an essential hair care natural product, able to nourish and strengthen hair. And Middle Eastern women use Henna to colour and condition their tresses.

Fast forward a few thousand years, and Henna is now known and used as an alternative to chemical hair dyes all around the world.

How does Henna work?

Henna powder is produced by extracting a dye molecule, called lawsone, from the leaves of the henna plant; when in contact with hair and skin it reacts with keratin producing a permanent coloured stain which can range from light orange to deep red, depending on the colour of the hair and how long the dye is applied for.

While chemical hair dyes alter and damage the internal structure of the hair, by penetrating the hair cortex, Henna creates an external coating, creating a protective film around the hair strands. As a result, hair become stronger, healthier and more manageable, reducing dryness and frizz, adding volume and promoting hair growth. And its natural antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties provide deep nourishment and moisture to the scalp, preventing itchiness and dandruff.

Is Henna safe to use?

I’ve been using henna regularly for years now: not only it hasn’t damaged my hair, but they seem to have improved in strength and texture thanks to this awesome natural product. My hair now not only are richer in colour, but they also look healthier and they are softer…and I even managed to get rid of dandruff!

But we are all different and, as with any products you decide to use on yourself, if you decide to try and use henna next time you colour your hair you should do a strand test first, applying some henna on a small section of your hair.

Just because it is natural it doesn’t mean it can’t cause allergic reactions or other side effects. And the strand test will also show you the result colour, and help you decide if it is the right tone for you.

Can Henna cover grey hair?

Yes, it can, but you must use 100% pure henna powder to dye grey hair. If you are not a big fan of its reddish copper tone, you can mix it with other herbs to get different colours; but to achieve the best results you need to apply the pure henna first as a base for whichever other herb and colour you choose. I usually mix henna powder with indigo to get a darker brown tone.

How to dye your hair with Henna step by step

1. You will need:
   • 100% natural henna powder
   • non-metallic bowl
   • warm water
   • coconut oil / vaseline
   • gloves
   • brush (optional)
   • old towel
   • plastic bag
   • old wool cap and old clothes
   • old bed sheet / newspapers
2. Prepare the Henna mixture – This is probably the most important step, as the quality of the paste will influence the quality of the colour and the overall dyeing experience. Mix the Henna powder in the non metallic bowl with warm water, breaking lumps up until the paste has the same consistency of yogurt. Cover the bowl and let the mixture sit for 1-2 hours, to allow the dye to release.
3. Protect your house surfaces, clothing and skin – Henna-ing your hair gives you the opportunity to recycle old t-shirts and caps; your clothes will definitely get stained in the process. And for the same reason make sure you cover floor and surfaces (I use an old bed sheet, you can use also old newspapers). Apply coconut oil or vaseline to your hairline to avoid staining your skin.
4. Apply the Henna paste – Wear your gloves and apply the Henna paste to clean (with no styling products on them) and dry hair, divided into sections: start from the roots and work your way down to the ends. You can use your hands or even a brush, whatever works best for you. After you’ve applied the paste, use a plastic bag and an old wool cap to cover your hair, and wait following the instructions on your Henna packaging. The longer you’ll keep the paste on, the stronger the colour will be.
5. Rinse your hair with water until the water runs clear. Use a silicone-free conditioner (instead of shampoo) to remove any henna residue.
6. Fall in love with your new hair colour!

Pros and Cons of using Henna to dye your hair

Below is a list of pro and cons on using henna to colour your hair, so you can decide if henna would work for you.

THE CONS

• Henna is permanent. Henna causes the build up of metallic salts that will bind to the hair and prevent any other type of dyeing products to work on your hair. If you decide to use henna, you will have to wait for the colour to grow out before being able to use other dyeing products.
• Henna results can be unpredictable. Because it’s a natural product, henna final colour will depend of the colour of your hair, and it will continue to ‘develop’ in the few days after the henna application, becoming richer with time.
• Henna is messy: applying henna can be a messy process, especially the first times you do it (although it did get a lot better with practice, in my experience. Just don’t wear your favourite t shirt, as it will probably get stained; and protect floor and surfaces during your henna session).
• It might take longer to achieve your desired hair colour when using Henna, and Henna might not provide the same level of coverage for gray hair offered by chemical hair dyes.

THE PROS

• It’s natural, and it will make your hair healthier and stronger.
• The result looks natural, and you can mix it with other herbs to get your favourite hair colour.
• It’s long lasting: a dye made with good quality henna can last up to a month.
• It’s cheaper (if you DIY): I like doing my henna at home, but I also kind of have to because where I live hairdressers won’t work with henna. And as you can imagine not going to the hairdresser regularly to have my hair dyed has saved me $$$! But please don’t save on the product itself! Always use good quality henna in its pure form, read the ingredients carefully and never use henna powder containing additives, preservatives or chemicals like PPD.

So, do you think Henna could be the answer to your hair problems? Do the pros we have listed outweight the cons? While chemical hair dyes offer immediate and uniform coverage (especially when dying gray hair), and more colour options, Henna is your hair’s best friend if you are looking for an eco-friendly and plant-based dye. Henna not only colours but also nourishes and moistures your tresses, offering a holistic approach for overall hair health and beauty.

What about you, have you tried colouring your hair with Henna? Or are you considering it? Share your thoughts and experiences in the comments field below!